When it comes to luxury watches, few brands do it better than Patek. Their classic designs are impervious to short-lived trends, capturing the spirit of an era and transcending time itself.
The term ‘haute horology’ gets thrown around a lot, but Patek’s timepieces truly deserve it. Their heirloom quality and genuinely insane finishes are second to none.
Origin
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava is a testament to the brand’s adherence to tradition. While many watchmakers bend with the latest stylistic trends, the venerable marque prefers to retain its identity as an authority in the watch industry. Consequently, the design of every modern watch takes inspiration from its own archive of past references.
The name of the model was inspired by a legend of the Calatrava citadel in Spain where a religious order, led by the Stern brothers, defended christianity against the invading moors. The Stern brothers owned a dial manufacturer, the Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Freres, which supplied Patek Philippe. The heirs chose the name to honor the soldiers who fought against the Moors and to emphasize their connection with the watchmaker’s heritage and history.
In the late 1920s, Patek Philippe was in financial trouble despite its many innovations, including the world’s first bracelet wristwatch and several of the most complicated watches ever made. The Stern brothers found salvation in 1932, when they purchased a controlling share of the company from the Patek Philippe family. They were able to introduce the Ref. 96, a more affordable version of the classic Calatrava.
Throughout the years, Patek Philippe continued to create technological marvels such as the perpetual calendar movement, which automatically accounted for varying lengths of months and leap years. Other complication watches such as the world-time mechanism, which allows the wearer to change to any time zone on the fly, showcased the watchmaker’s uncompromising pursuit of excellence and its ability to marry tradition with cutting-edge engineering.
Unlike Rolex, which focuses on reworking and reintroducing its own calibers for each generation, Patek Philippe prefers to make minor improvements to its existing movements. This is especially true for the brand’s dress watches, which rely on the same movements for decades. Among the recent technical upgrades include sprung teeth on the fourth wheel that drives the second hand, which enhances smoothness of movement and helps to ensure precision in daily use.
Style
The story of Patek Philippe is one of unrivaled horological innovation and understated elegance. From the keyless winding mechanism that revolutionized watchmaking in 1845 to the perpetual calendar and second time zone models that garnered worldwide acclaim in the 1970s, each milestone in their history speaks to a relentless commitment to advancement.
It’s no wonder that the brand’s heirloom designs continue to do so well in today’s market. The original Calatrava model, for example, was crafted in 1932 to help the company weather the Great Depression. Its design was inspired by the Bauhaus movement, a German school of design founded on principles like “less is more” and “form follows function.”
David Penney, who designed the first Calatrava, stayed true to these philosophies when creating his debut watch. He eschewed any embellishments that would detract from the purpose of the watch, resulting in an elegantly understated piece that has stood the test of time.
The minimalist aesthetic of the Calatrava collection has continued to evolve over the years, but never so much as to stray too far from the original design. The latest releases, such as the 5226G, are a perfect example of this. The addition of a date display and travel time features is a nod to modern advancements, but the signature features remain intact.
Patek Philippe has a clear commitment to innovation and tradition, and the Calatrava line is a testament to its success. The timeless designs are as at home in a Black Tie dinner as they are with a suit and tie or a sweater and chinos. It’s no wonder that the brand has earned such a loyal following among those with refined taste and an appreciation for the fine details of horological engineering.
Functions
Patek Philippe is a brand known for their high horology watches, which are prized collector’s items and often increase in value over time. Unlike some other luxury brands that release watches with major upgrades every year, Patek Philippe tends to make minor changes to their designs over the course of decades. This approach reflects the company’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
The Calatrava line is one of the most iconic collections from Patek Philippe, with pieces dating back to 1932. It is the first true ‘family’ of watches that the company created, and it remains a classic to this day. It was designed to help the company survive the Depression, and it’s a symbol of the elegance and charm that has become synonymous with the name Patek Philippe.
Today, the Calatrava is a timeless design that is perfect for any occasion. It can be worn with a suit to a black tie dinner, or it can be dressed down with a sweater and chinos for a casual look. The Calatrava is also a great watch to wear while traveling, as it has been equipped with Patek Philippe’s patented travel-time mechanism, which allows the user to understand their second time zone without having to switch watches.
Another reason the Calatrava is so popular is because it has a number of unique functions that set it apart from other Patek models. For example, it has a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar that are both rare for pocket watches. It also has a patented complication that automatically resets the date and day of the week. This is a significant innovation for Patek, as it is one of the only manufacturers to offer this feature.
Materials
A Patek Philippe watch is an awe-inspiring testament to precision, craftsmanship and a relentless pursuit of pushing the limits of possibility. From their pioneering keyless winding and hand-setting mechanisms to the perpetual calendar that earned them global acclaim in 1889, this manufacturer is a leader in groundbreaking inventions. Beyond the mechanical heart of each watch, artisans apply age-old techniques to imbue each component with a unique character. Engraving becomes a canvas for intricate patterns, enameling transforms dials into miniature works of art, and gem-setting elevates each precious stone to the point where it captures the light in mesmerizing ways.
With these rich traditions, it’s no wonder that a Patek Philippe Calatrava Legacy watch is a symbol of understated elegance and enduring beauty. The company’s commitment to impeccable craftsmanship and a minimalist design is evident in every detail of the watch, from the case to the bracelet.
In addition to using superior materials, each component is meticulously finished by hand. This process, which can take several hours for a single link or even months for the delicate enameling of a dial, is an example of Patek Philippe’s devotion to preserving artisanal skills. As a result, each watch features an exquisitely polished and engraved finish that provides a smooth surface for a clean sweep of the hands and a delicate feel against the wrist.
The company also uses a special alloy called Silinvar, a high-tech material that resists wear and corrosion better than conventional steel. This innovation would lead to the development of other silicon parts for watches by Patek and other manufacturers, and set the standard for quality Swiss watches. Unlike other luxury brands, Patek Philippe is vertically integrated, with all movements and external components made in-house. This level of expertise carries through from the first sketches to the final assembly.
Price
When it comes to high-end Swiss watches, few brands command the kind of attention and price that Patek Philippe does. Their history is a testament to their unflinching commitment to quality and innovation, and their reputation among watch enthusiasts and collectors is well established. It takes decades, even centuries to reach the pinnacle of the industry and retain that status, but once there, you’re there for good.
Despite their incredible legacy of groundbreaking inventions, the brand has never lost sight of its roots, retaining an image of classic elegance and understated sophistication. The Patek Philippe Calatrava is the perfect example, blending timeless design with modern functionality. It’s a watch that is perfect for any occasion, whether you’re heading to the office or out for a night on the town.
Patek’s dedication to balancing tradition and innovation is seen throughout the entire collection, but it’s most apparent in the Calatrava. The first models in the series were created in 1932 and have since become a byword for simple time-only dress watches. They are also less expensive than the company’s most complex watches, making them accessible to a larger audience.
Today, the Calatrava is available in two references: the 3919 and the 5119. The former features a 36-mm case and a ribbed bezel, while the latter has a slightly smaller 37-mm diameter. The 5119 costs around $18,000 in gold, and the 3919 costs a bit more, depending on the material and finishing options. Both are a beautiful expression of the Patek Philippe heritage and continue to be in demand.
